•March 24, 2017 • Leave a Comment
We drove down to Ucluelet to have coffee at the amazing Zoë’s Bakery. Brownies, big seedy cookies, pastries, loaves of rustic bread, and the best espresso I’ve had in ages. It was raining off and on. We planned to stop at the Kwisitis Centre to look at the exhibits but when we pulled into the parking area, a parks worker told us the beach and centre were closed because of particularly aggressive wolves who’d attacked a dog yesterday. What about the bog trail, we wondered. Oh, that’s open, she told us. And it was, but with this warning on the sign:
We’ve always loved the Shorepine Bog Trail. A boardwalk winds through sphagnum moss, with umbrella-shaped Pinus contorta var. contorta (a pine that is Lodgepole in its interior incarnation), stunted spruce, bog laurel, labrador tea, sundews, reeds and sedges, and everything glowing green in the mist.
There were wolf scats on the boardwalk but none of them recent. The rain had washed away most of the poop to reveal hair and tiny bone fragments. (Luckily I was wearing the yellow slicker our hotel had thoughtfully left in the closet so that if we did encounter one of the rogues, my remains might at least be recognizable as visitor, not squirrel or unlucky dog.)
Lunch at the wonderful Sobo. We ate there years ago when it was located in the Botanical Garden. Fresh local food, a glass of Joie rosé, and back to wait out the rain for another walk on Cox Bay where the surfers are bobbing in the waves like seals.
•March 24, 2017 • Leave a Comment
Yesterday it rained. When we woke, we watched surfers wait for the perfect wave in torrential rain. And then we drove to a favourite trail, the one to Schooner Cove. There was a single lantern of skunk cabbage, its leaves eaten to the quick by a bear.
Sometimes I think it’s hard to find the truly wild places on this earth. The ones we haven’t damaged. Looking out at Schooner Cove or here at Cox Bay or at Florencia Bay where I camped as a 19 year old, I know there’s plastic in the ocean between us and Japan, there’s contaminated flotsam from Fukashima, the detritus of populations who’ve taken this earth for granted. Were we always this way? So the heart is compromised, even in the beloved places.
At the foot of the Schooner Cove trail, long canes of rose off in the huckleberry. Not a native rose, not Nootka or bald-hipped, but something with curved thorns. Seeded by birds? Planted decades ago by one of the free spirits living at the high tide line in a driftwood shelter?
We ate a delicious lunch at Wolf in the Fog and came back to think our respective thoughts, make notes in our books, dry our jeans by the fire. And later, slept to the boom of the surf. What does it say to us? What it’s always said, its own music. I think of John Luther Adams’s extraordinary “Become Ocean“, and his words: “Life on this earth first emerged from the sea. As the polar ice melts and sea level rises, we humans find ourselves facing the prospect that once again we may quite literally become ocean.”
•March 22, 2017 • 4 Comments
We’d planned to take the second (7:00 a.m.) or third (8:20 a.m.) ferry but then it was 3:30.
–Are you awake?
— If we can get ready to go in 40 minutes, we could get the 6:20.
Fed the cat. (Our neighbour is kindly coming to feed her for the days we’re away.) Filled the cooler and headed down the dark highway, watchful for elk and deer. Just one coyote loping across the road and into the trees.
Two ferries, a stop at Coombs for bread, smoked salmon pate, and other treats, and we were nearing the Pacific Rim. Crossing Lost Shoe Creek #1 and then Lost Shoe Creek #2 (a pair!) and we could see the mist rising from the ocean as we turned towards Tofino.
It’s a long drive to Long Beach, almost as long for us as travelling to Europe (though as the crow flies it’s much closer…). At 4, we checked into our suite at the Pacific Sands Resort where this table was waiting for us.
I was young on these beaches. I know I’ve written about this before (an essay, “Undressing the Mountains”, in Red Laredo Boots, remembers sleeping on the beach in the 1970s and walking its long lengths with a shell tied to my ankle…) but every time I come to the west coast of Vancouver Island, I’m returned to those times. I look out at the shining sea and see everything I saw then. The years vanish and I’m that young woman with a bruised heart and her cells porous for poetry.
We’ve had a couple of walks, picked up sand dollars and a huge mussel shell to sit on the table and hold the smell of the sea. Tomorrow we’ll walk on our favourite trails and eat something delicious at Wolf in the Fog. The whales are passing on their way to Alaska and the ravens are bickering in the trees just beyond where I’m sitting. The fire is warm and the surf is loud. If I have a bucket list, it would include learning to surf. When I see people head into the water with their boards, I want to join them. Is it too late? Can a woman in her sixties put on a wetsuit and learn to balance on a curve of wave?
In the meantime, this is what I see from my chair by the big window.
•March 21, 2017 • 2 Comments
For World Poetry Day, I celebrate Nazik Al-Malaika. She was born in Iraq in 1923 and died in Cairo in 2007. She is recognized as one of the Arabic world’s foremost poets. She broke from classical tradition to explore free verse though she returned to classical forms later in life. Her work is musical and beautiful, influenced by her study of music, specifically the oud.
Why do we fear words
when they have been rose-palmed hands,
fragrant, passing gently over our cheeks,
and glasses of heartening wine
sipped, one summer, by thirsty lips?
Why do we fear words
when among them are words like unseen bells,
whose echo announces in our troubled lives
the coming of a period of enchanted dawn,
drenched in love, and life?
So why do we fear words?
We took pleasure in silence.
We became still, fearing the secret might part our lips.
We thought that in words laid an unseen ghoul,
crouching, hidden by the letters from the ear of time.
We shackled the thirsty letters,
we forbade them to spread the night for us
as a cushion, dripping with music, dreams,
and warm cups.
Why do we fear words?
Among them are words of smooth sweetness
whose letters have drawn the warmth of hope from two lips,
and others that, rejoicing in pleasure
have waded through momentary joy with two drunk eyes.
Words, poetry, tenderly
turned to caress our cheeks, sounds
that, asleep in their echo, lies a rich color, a rustling,
a secret ardor, a hidden longing.
Why do we fear words?
If their thorns have once wounded us,
then they have also wrapped their arms around our necks
and shed their sweet scent upon our desires.
If their letters have pierced us
and their face turned callously from us
Then they have also left us with an oud in our hands
And tomorrow they will shower us with life.
So pour us two full glasses of words!
Tomorrow we will build ourselves a dream-nest of words,
high, with ivy trailing from its letters.
We will nourish its buds with poetry
and water its flowers with words.
We will build a balcony for the timid rose
with pillars made of words,
and a cool hall flooded with deep shade,
guarded by words.
Our life we have dedicated as a prayer
To whom will we pray . . . but to words?
–Nazik Al-Malaika, translated from the Arabic by Rebecca Carol Johnson
•March 16, 2017 • 2 Comments
Yesterday we had some unexpected sunshine and I went out to tidy the kitchen herbs. They overwinter on a trolley (in its former life, it was a barbecue…). New shoots of tarragon, sprouts of chives, lush rosemary, even some miners lettuce sprouting in a planter below.
I swept the deck and thought how different it looks in winter, the bare branches of wisteria, grape, and clematis tangled overhead.
In summer, there are long swags of purple blossoms, clusters of grapes, tree frogs, the occasional raccoon. Yet looking at the deck, I could populate it immediately with summer. It’s been the site of many long family dinners, parties that went into the wee hours, extemporaneous poetry readings, songs. A month ago, it seemed that summer would never come. Our area had the coldest winter in decades, one snowfall after another. Yet the honeysuckle is in new leaf and in a couple of weeks we’ll be picking miners lettuce for our salads! How reliable the earth’s timetable is. For now.
Last week I approved the copyedits of my essay, “Love Song”, which will appear in Mother Tongue Publishing’s The Summer Book. While I thought about commas and em-dashes, I also remembered writing the essay in November when I was awaiting test results. It seemed I might have metastatic cancer. But now it seems I don’t. And I’m hugely grateful. I wrote the essay as a way of gathering up my hope into a single day of memory. All the summer meals and swims and picnics, all the children (and their children) collected at the table. All the salmon from the barbecue (both the herb trolley and its successor!), all the skewers of lamb, the bowls of spot prawns with butter and lemon. And the salads! Here’s the deck in summer and here’s a little passage from the essay. This morning it’s not sunny but if I close my eyes, I can bring it all to mind.
The table is set; time to come up from the lake. Old songs play on the stereo, the ones we’ve sung all these years in summer. You can’t hurry love. Come along, your bodies cool, duck-itchy, the baby fat turned to muscle, your own children in your arms as you scatter damp towels and hang bathing suits on the railings.
•March 13, 2017 • Leave a Comment
Under a leaden grey sky, we walked with the grandbabies and helped Kelly slide down some wet slides, negotiate some slippery ramps, and then we had the pleasure of watching both children on the swings. When I was a child, I remember quite clearly that a boy in our neighbourhood pumped himself so high that the swing went over the top of the metal scaffolding. The boy fell to earth with a thump and (I think) broke his arm on impact. The actual nature of swings hasn’t evolved much — still those thick chains, the seats made of rubber or wood. But the ground underneath, once paved with asphalt or else dirt, is now covered with soft padded carpet.
Henry loved the feel of the metal part of the swing in his mouth, gnawing and sucking. Thank goodness it wasn’t cold. (That old Canadian story…) And there was time to look out on False Creek where geese swam, the little ferries crossed back and forth, and the moments counting down until we return home to the Sechelt peninsula tomorrow and these guys fly back to Edmonton on Wednesday.