This was the road we took to the long beach, 18 km, no one else there until a man arrived to fish from the shore and a couple arrived to walk. The waves were at least 30 feet high, one after another, some of them curling into the most beautiful green tunnels, some of them full of sand. Flocks of pelicans whirling back and forth. And in the distance, first one whale, idling around, surfacing, breaching, then four more. We couldn’t swim on this beach, too wild, but to be there, the sand going on forever, the light so brilliant on the water, the grey-green plants, the sky was to be present in what felt like the beginning of the world.